Flying a Drone in Italy: Where You Legally Can (Dolomites, Capri, Amalfi)
Where I could and couldn't legally fly a drone in Italy - Alpe di Siusi, Val di Funes and Cadini di Misurina in the Dolomites, plus Capri and the Amalfi Coast, and how the registration works.

Italy is one of the more restrictive countries in Europe for drones, and most of the places you'd most want to fly are exactly the places you can't. The Dolomites in particular are largely off-limits, because the best-known spots sit inside protected areas.
This is where I could legally fly, where I couldn't, and the registration process as a non-Italian.
I flew a DJI Mini 3, which matters for the rules — the weight class of your drone determines which category you fall into.
Start here: the official Italian drone map
Before anything else, you need access to Italy's official drone map, which shows the restricted zones. Without it you're guessing, and guessing is how people end up flying somewhere they shouldn't.
The map sits behind a registration on the official Italian platform, and this is where non-Italians hit a wall: the registration form asks for an Italian tax ID (codice fiscale), which you won't have unless you live there.
There's a workaround that circulates among travelling pilots involving what gets typed into that field. I'd rather not spell it out, because entering false details on an official aviation platform is your risk to take and not something I want to hand anyone as a recipe. What I'd suggest instead is checking the current registration options for foreign operators before you travel — the platform has changed over time, and starting a conversation with them ahead of your trip is a lot less stressful than sorting it out from a car park in the Dolomites.
Either way: do not skip getting access to the map. It's the difference between flying legally and hoping.
Registration: EU vs non-EU
If you're registered in an EU country, you're covered. I live in Germany, so my EU operator registration carried over to Italy with no extra paperwork needed. That's the whole point of the common EU framework.
If you're not registered in an EU country, you'll need to register, and then the standard EU rules apply based on your drone's class and weight. A sub-250g drone like the Mini 3 sits in the most permissive category, which is a large part of why it's the sensible choice for travel.
The Dolomites: three places you can fly
Let me be blunt about the headline: almost everywhere in the Dolomites, you cannot fly. The national park and protected area boundaries cover most of the famous locations. These three were the exceptions I found.
Alpe di Siusi — legal
One of my two favourite spots of the whole trip. Europe's largest high-altitude alpine meadow, so you get enormous open space, rolling terrain and the peaks behind it — and it's legal to fly.
The openness is what makes it work. There's room to get distance from people and buildings without much effort.

Val di Funes — legal, with care
Legal to fly, but this is farmland with a working village in it, so stay well away from the crowds and the houses.
The classic composition here — the little church with the Odle peaks behind it — is popular enough that there are usually people around, and the buildings are private homes. Getting the distance right is on you.

Cadini di Misurina — legal at the end, and the hardest
You cannot fly at Tre Cime. It's inside the national park and that's the end of it.
But the viewpoint at the end of the Cadini di Misurina hike sits outside the park boundary, and you can fly there. This gave me my favourite footage of the entire trip — the jagged spires stacked up in rows, which is one of the great drone subjects in the Alps.
Two serious warnings, and I mean both of them:
1. The wind is heavy. Genuinely heavy, and it comes in gusts. This is exposed high terrain and a sub-250g drone gets pushed around badly. Be careful, and be prepared to abandon the flight — I'd rather you lost the shot than the drone.
2. You are standing on the park boundary. This is the real risk. The line between "legal" and "illegal airspace" runs right where you're flying, and it is easy to drift across it without realising. Have the map open, know which direction the boundary lies in, and keep the drone on your side of it deliberately rather than by luck.

Everywhere else in the Dolomites
Not allowed. Lago di Braies, Tre Cime, Seceda, Lago di Carezza, Cinque Torri — assume no unless the map tells you otherwise.
Capri and the Amalfi Coast
The south was more permissive than the Dolomites.
Capri — you can fly here, and it's a spectacular subject from the air.
The Amalfi Coast between Amalfi and Positano — parts of this stretch are flyable, and it's the coastline everyone recognises: the cliffs, the switchback road, the stacked houses.
The rule that matters: don't launch from or fly over the towns. Flying from inside the built-up areas is not permitted, and the towns are dense, crowded and full of people — exactly what the rules exist to protect.
What worked for me was flying on the Path of the Gods hike, a good distance from Positano. From up there, the town was visible and the coastline opened up in front of me without needing to be anywhere near the buildings or the crowds. If you're approaching the coast from over the water, keep a respectful distance from the shore and the boats.

My honest verdict
Best footage: Cadini di Misurina and Alpe di Siusi, in that order. Cadini is the more spectacular subject and the harder flight; Alpe di Siusi is the easier flight and still excellent.
Would I bring a drone to Italy again? Yes, but with realistic expectations. You'll spend a lot of the trip not flying, because most of the places you'd want to are protected. Bring it for the three or four locations where it's legal and treat everything else as a bonus.
The rules change. Everything here is what I found when I flew, and protected-area boundaries and platform requirements get revised. Check the official map for the specific spot you're standing in, on the day. Don't rely on this article, and don't rely on a forum post from three years ago.