Fort William and Glencoe: 2 Days Around the Western Highlands

After three nights on Skye, we spent two in Fort William. It's a practical base rather than a destination — the point is what's around it: the Glenfinnan Viaduct and the Road to the Isles in one direction, Glencoe in the other.

This was also the part of the trip where the weather let us down most. Here's what was worth it anyway.

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Day 1: the Glenfinnan Viaduct and the Road to the Isles

The Glenfinnan Viaduct

Honest opinion first: the Glenfinnan Viaduct is overrated. It's a railway bridge in a valley. But it's also the Harry Potter bridge, and as a fan I still wouldn't skip it.

If you go, this is the tip that matters:

Don't stop at the viewpoint next to the car park. That's where everyone stands, and it isn't the best angle. Take the trail to the viewpoint behind the bridge. It's a short hike, and the view from there is far better — the whole curve of the viaduct with the valley opening up behind it.

If you want to see the Jacobite steam train cross, check the timetable before you go and get to the viewpoint early.

Drones: there are "no drones" signs here because it's private land. The weather was too bad for me to fly anyway, but the approach I'd take is to ask — with a small donation, they'll usually let you.

Camusdarach Beach

From Glenfinnan we kept going west to Camusdarach Beach.

The beach is okay. The road there is amazing. It winds past lochs, hills and the coast the whole way, and it was one of the best drives of the trip — even in bad weather, which is what we had.

So go for the drive. If the weather is good when you get to the beach, that's a bonus.

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Day 2: Glencoe, the Hidden Valley and Glen Etive

Glencoe

The drive through Glencoe is one of the great roads in Scotland on its own — huge mountains rising straight out of the valley floor on both sides. Pull over at the lay-bys as you go.

The Hidden Valley hike

The Hidden Valley is the hike to do in Glencoe. It climbs from the valley floor up into a flat, enclosed glen tucked between the mountains — the story goes that it's where the MacDonalds hid stolen cattle.

Like every hike in this part of Scotland, it's easy in good weather and much harder in bad. The path gets rocky higher up and there's a river crossing, both of which are a lot less fun after heavy rain. Wear proper boots.

Flying a drone in Glencoe

Flying in the main valley isn't allowed. I flew away from the main valley instead, taking off from the side of the road. Check the restrictions before you launch.

Glen Etive

In the evening we drove into Glen Etive, a long dead-end single-track road into the mountains off the Glencoe road.

The weather was so bad we didn't see anything. Cloud down to the valley floor, rain the whole way. It's supposed to be one of the most beautiful drives in Scotland, and I'll take that on trust — but it's also a good reminder that in the Western Highlands, you plan for the weather, not the other way round. If you have a clearer day, put Glen Etive on it.

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Worth knowing

• Fort William is a base, not a destination. Spend your time out of town.
• Use the viewpoint behind the Glenfinnan Viaduct, not the one by the car park.
• The Road to the Isles is the point of the Camusdarach trip, not the beach.
• The Hidden Valley is the one hike to do in Glencoe if you only have time for one.
• Glen Etive needs a clear day. If the cloud is low, save the drive.
• Waterproofs and proper boots. This was the wettest part of our trip.

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Related reading

• 8 Days in Scotland: the full road trip itinerary
• 3 Days on the Isle of Skye
• 4 days in London — including the Warner Bros. studio tour, for the rest of the Harry Potter trail